Out from the airport, we were to haggle
with the taxi and Somo stand. Each proposed arbitrary rent to ferry us to the
city. The first impression after leaving the airport was that CRP and police
are spread out thickly. However, like previous years, the CRP does not stop
vehicles at every place for checking. But surely government functionaries and
security staff seemed to be the prisoners of some inexplicable fear.
At Haiderpora, we found a large police
force crowded around a particular house by the side of the road. This was the
residence of Sayyed Ali Shah Geelani, usually house arrested at least for five
days in a week by Omar Abdullah government. We parked our vehicle by roadside, convinced
the security guards and obtained permission to meet with Geelani Sahib.
Geelani’s attendants treated us with
respect and offered us qahwa. The fragile leader came in. His eyes were bright
though his face reflected the long and arduous political struggle through which
he has gone. He was polite to know who we were and gave us the permission to
put some questions to him.
Q: You fought election for an Indian State India ’s
illegal occupation of Kashmir .
A: A principled man like Gandhi ji is
called Bapu in and outside India Kashmir can be kept in possession through deceit, oppression,
murder, loot, black laws and military muscle.
Q: Please reflect on the unity among the
separatist organizations and the split in the Hurriyat.
A: I will remain in unison with only such
forces as will not enter into any dialogue unless India
agrees that Kashmir is a disputed land. I
cannot unite with such forces as meet with the Indians covertly or overtly.
A: Our
movement was initiated by ISI. We do not know our destination because the
movement is not in our hands. We are just carrying out the orders without
knowing where we are headed to.
Impressed by his courtesy, we took leave of him and headed towards Lal Chowk. We got held up in a traffic jam. Strange is the traffic culture in
Everywhere along the road, including the
civil lines of Lal Chowk, heaps of litter lies on either side. Were the
municipal functionaries on strike? No, people from homes or hotels and
restaurant throw litter on the streets as dust bins are no where placed. Once
or twice week garbage is collected and disposed off but there are no disposal
units anywhere in the city. It is dumped underground and helps proliferation of
environmental pollution. For a population of 10.5 million neither the
government nor private sector has installed any re-cycling plant. Exhausted and
nauseated, we retired for rest and refreshment for next day’s ordeal.
We thought of spending a night in much
trumpeted houseboat and experience an adventure. On enquiry, we were told the
outlet of the toilet in houseboats terminates in the water of the Dal. Not
reconciled to commit the sin, we suppressed our desire of spending a gala night
in a house boat. Vehicles of all sorts, flag cars and even Star Ambassadors are
given a wash on the banks of the Dal just under the nose of the traffic police
on duty. The lake has been made a source of income for the administration and
LAWDA.
We thought of visiting city gardens of
Shalimar, Nishat, Harwan and Cheshma Shahi where thousands of tourists come for
a pleasure rip. No toilet facilities are available there, and if an odd one
exists, it is stinking and spreading bad smell all over the garden. In the name
of removing this dirt, millions are reported to have been embezzled and
misappropriated.
Pilgrimage to Amarnath was round the corner
and hence we decided to visit Sona Marg. We found the pilgrims spreading litter
on either side of the road right up to Baltal. After all there should have been
adequate sanitary arrangement right from Jammu Jammu Kashmir if they intend
to have the darshan year after year. All along the road from Baltal to Amarnath,
we find litter like empty bottles, polythene bags and dirt abounding on both
sides.
On return, we were pleased to see the pure
and transparent waters of Sona
Marg Lake
We were happy that the River Sindh was not
polluted the way the Jhelum is. The people of
Leh are conscious of keeping water resources clean. I can say that this
beautiful area has so far escaped the depredations of human depravity. May be
that the region remains cut off for 6-7 months in a year. Here people are economically
far weaker in comparison to those in the valley or in Jammu
Hill Councils for Leh and Kargil have
helped to devolve power to the people’s representatives to some extent. But
they are also upset that unless Kashmir issue
is solved people will continue to be the victim of this tussle. People here are
friendly and nice to meet and talk to.
With reminiscences sweet and bitter we began our return journey. The question that haunted us was whether conditions in J&K would return to normalcy and whether people in this beautiful patch of land could breathe the air of freedom.
We made a detour to Gulmarg. People informed us that the widening of the
road from Narbal to Gulmarg has been going on for last ten years. No decent
restaurant or toilet is to be found along the entire route from Srinagar
At Gulmarg we had to stand in line if we
wanted to take a ride in Gandola Lift chair. Some locals promised to provide
tickets immediately if we paid two hundred rupees extra. The tourists had sworn
that they would not pay any bribe in Indian currency as it carried the imprint
of Bapu or Gandhiji a truthful person.
A deafening noise coming from right hand
side was from a lawyer from Delhi
Atop the mountains, we could not believe
that we were enjoying the pristine purity of nature and environment. Tears
welled up in our eyes and we stood crossed fingers if our future generations
would have the luck to see these rare scenic beauties because we have destroyed
the forests. We found trees lay on ground as if human bodies were beheaded and
trunks fallen on the ground. On questioning, we were told that a large mafia of
forest thieves of whom forest functionaries and officers were a part, are
engaged in this unprecedented destruction and loot of forest wealth.
Many tourists complained of hoteliers of Gulmarg looting them. Nowhere is the hotel tariff fixed and if there is a rush of tourists, they are charged anything between five and ten thousand rupees per night. In lean season the same rooms could be rented for 500 rupees. There is no control on the price of meals in restaurants nor is the food offered of established health standards.
We talked to some people about Kashmir issue. They gave vent to their anger saying
during past two decades more than a lakh had been martyred. Indian army and
security forces had created graveyards for our youth at every step. Our
protests against lack of water and electricity bring nothing but bullets. There
are thousands of graves about which nobody knows who has been laid to rest in
them. Thousands have been lifted from roadside, homes and shops and nothing is
known about what happened to them. Thousands are languishing in jails without
being prosecuted under law. They remained imprisoned for ten or fifteen years. Administration
is humiliating the judiciary by not implementing its verdicts. Any person set
free by the court is re-arrested by the administration twice or thrice and even
up to eight times.
They said that the rulers in New Delhi New Delhi
Greatly dismayed with these reports, we
sought relaxation and went to Dood Pathri health resort in district Budgam. On
both sides of the road we found hundreds of functional kiln works. We stopped
at a place and made some enquiries. We were told that anybody can give a hefty
bribe to the local authorities and set up a kiln not taking account of
pollution of environment that it would cause. Even the arable land is also
converted to kiln work.
Next we caught sight of orchards with fruit
hanging from them. In a brief exchange with the owners of the orchard, who we
thought made good fortune, we were told as this: “It is people like you who fix the price of
our fruit in markets like Delhi, Jullundhar, Mumbai and Amritsar because we
cannot sell the fruit out of our sweet will as there is the danger of it
getting rotten. We don’t have cold storage arrangement in Kashmir .
At times we have to pay the transport expenses from our pockets.”
As we passed Arizal and headed towards Dood Pathri, we found large number of trees fallen by the roadside. We were about to cry on beholding this incredible scene. Some persons standing by asked us the reason why we were dismayed? We said we did not expect to be a witness to this large scale destruction of trees. They were frank enough to confess that they felled the trees in connivance with forest functionaries and then distribute the spoils of the loot among themselves. We never thought our state would become a desert for us. What makes you cry then, they asked?
The scenic beauty of Dood Pathri brought us
some solace. During interaction with the locals, one of them said that if he
told the truth he had the fear of his life. Here is a loot of plots of land. Influential
people have distributed plots among their own kith and kin. As our tour proceeded,
we were lost in thoughts that whosoever talked to us talked only in negative
terms as they presented the picture to us.
We thought of seeking answers to our
questions from a bureaucrat. With difficulty a bureaucrat agreed to respond on
condition of anonymity. Unusually only a couple of files lay on his table. When
we asked about turmoil and disturbance in Kashmir ,
the Secretary opened his heart. Following is the crux of what he said:
“The entire polity has been corrupted. Honest
officers like I am get just one small office room, one table and a telephone. Corrupt
and deceitful officers are posted at lucrative positions. Ranks are sold in all
departments, police stations, tehsils and districts. A dead body can neither be buried nor
cremated without paying a bribe. Orderlies and petty clerks are indicted on
charges of corruption. Anybody can be arrested within ten minutes on charges of
corruption because a host of corrupt officers and ministers have income
disproportionate to their expenditures. Besides that they have raised
properties, bank accounts for their children and grandchildren sill to be born.
Officers of my ilk have only two ways to survive. Either to sit complacently in
these dilapidated rooms and go on gloating on our honesty or like others we
also succumb to pollute our hands in this dirt.”
As we plied along the street, suddenly
public traffic was halted and people were shoved to one side of the street. The
Chief Minister’s cavalcade was to pass half an hour later. No fewer than forty
vehicles were in CM’s trail. A fancy of meeting with the CM and seeking answer
to a couple of questions took us by arm. We could make an appointment after an
effort.
Q: Do you think the present peace can
become permanent peace in Kashmir ?
A: No not at all until Kashmir
issue is resolved.
A: How can I catch hold of anybody without
a convincing proof?
A: New
Delhi
We came out and proceeded to meet with a
few Pandits. First we met with one who had never left the valley. He runs his
pharmacy shop nicely. Our conversation proceeded as follows:
Q: Did you ever feel any fear in staying
here?
A: What fear? It is my birth place. I have
my sisters and brothers around me.
A: I think they were too hasty in
apprehending any fear. Some excesses were done with some people.
We met with a Pandit leader. It went as
follows:
Q: How many Pandits are left in the valley?
A: Around 34000
A: No excesses took place on communal basis.
But some people may have done excesses with one another as happens in other
communities.
A: Migration became a business with some
people. Indian government, too, does not want them to return. It has created
habitats for them in and around Jammu Kashmir
and its multi-cultural structure. They are indoctrinated that Kashmiri Muslims
unleashed loot, killing and arson and forced them out of Kashmir .
Hence they have settled in different cities and towns of India including Jammu Kashmir who are living
a miserable life in poverty and squalor in refugee camps. By raising habitats
for the Pandits not in the valley but away from it, the government has
practically obstructed their return to the valley. Otherwise despite being a
Pandit, I can say that the Pandits have nothing to fear in the valley. Sikh and
Hindu brothers are already living here.
Mirwaiz Omar Farooq with whom we had made
an appointment received us cordially and entertained us over a cup of qahwa. Pertinent
to mention that the elders of his house have not served Kashmir
only in terms of religious services but has also rendered valuable service in
the field of spreading education. Below is the resume of our conversation with
him:
Q: What is the solution for the Kashmir
Issue?”
A: India
and Pakistan should sit
together to find a solution keeping in mind the sentiments of the people of Kashmir .
A: Actually this is a dispute of the people
of the Valley. But India and
Pakistan
Q: Many people are refused passport for no
reason. Most of the applicants are students. Even a boy born six months after
his militant father was killed, too, is denied passport. But you get the
passport to visit Washington , France , Canada ,
Pakistan , Belgium , Saudi
Arabia and London
A: (His face changed its colour). You
better put this question to the Indians. I was not associated with any
militancy. My father and my maternal uncle both were martyred. Passport is my
fundamental right. I say it is everybody’s fundamental right. A father, brother
or son cannot be punished for the crime one may have committed.
A: We tried our best but Geelani Sahib was
not forthcoming. We can only continue our efforts for unity.
A: We are trying. Maybe some happenings, some
episodes bring us together.
Leaving him in his dreams of episodes, we
left the place; we came out feeling that Mirwaiz has modern thinking and he had
many things to say for the welfare of the people. But why he did not give
expression to these thoughts remained a mystery with us.
We intended to pay obeisance at the holy
shrine of Hazratbal. But what bemused us was that on one hand Kashmiri Muslims
have all veneration and respect for Hazratbal shrine where the relic of the
Holy Prophet is preserved. On the other hand the waters of Dal Lake
As we proceeded to meet with some lawyers
in the bar, we became a witness to an episode that forced us o stop our vehicle.
A wounded boy lay on the road. The boys were playing on the road and a passing
vehicle had struck him down. We asked the crowd present on the site if there
were no playing grounds for the children
in the city. Some among the audience hurled abuses on the government and said: “
All the state lands, grasslands, and custodian land which could have become the
playing ground for the children have been occupied illegally by NC, Congress, PDP
and other influential persons, army and security forces. We don’t have a single
stadium here like one in other Indian states. Only bureaucrats, mainstream
political leaders and those who are the apple of Chief Minster’s eye can get
the membership of Royal Golf Club because the CM is its chairman. No poor
student can become a golfer. When there are no swimming pools, football grounds
and golf course provision, how are the youth of this place going to give vent
to their energy? Of course stone pelting remains the option.
We said to the bar office bearers that
lawyers are the architects of a nation. They can be convinced through logic and
can convince others through logic. We asked them what they thought about Kashmir in terms of law and what course of action would
they suggest. They said they wanted freedom (aazaadi). What is the meaning of
freedom? They said it means self determination in accordance with the UN
resolutions. But there is no mention of self-determination in these resolutions.
All they say is that people have to make a choice between India and Pakistan
Some of the back benchers among the audience laughed in their sleeves. “Sir, you are not talking to the lawyers in
Crestfallen, we left the bar and these
questions rang loud in our heads:
• Will
a nation destroy a paradise-like land for self aggrandizement?
• Will
any nation send a thousand to martyrdom without an
• Can
political parties of a nation run a movement despite so
• Will
a nation be collectively prepared to accept bribes, steal electricity, usurp
the rights of others, and perpetrate oppression on one another despite offering
prayers and calls for prayers and performing other religious obligations?
• Are
those separatist organizations whose mandate is accession to Pakistan really willing to accept the yoke of
servitude of Pakistan
• I
feel that this community has fallen in the hands of weird parties and weird
political leadership and is making endless sacrifices of life while panting for
real destination.
• I
am convinced that India Jammu and Kashmir
• I
also felt that this nation has lost the destination and the milestone
indicating the destination. This frustration has come down to erode the moral
frontiers. I also thought that India Kashmir has tasted the fruit of
true democracy.
With these impressions of our tour of
Kashmir, we departed from Srinagar Kashmir and one day it would re-emerge as the paradise on
earth.
This article was published in Daily 'Greater Kashmir' on 29th June 2011.
